Patek Philippe. An Automatic Platinum Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Retrograde Date and Moon Phases
Case No: 408xxxx
Movement No: 195xxxx
Cal. 315 S QR automatic movement, 31 jewels, 21k gold rotor, white dial, black Roman numerals, outer minute divisions, center seconds, inner retrograde date indication with central hand, three apertures at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock for month, day, and leap year indication, aperture for moon phases, circular officer’s case, sapphire crystal display back protected by a hinged cover, platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp, case, dial, and movement signed
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
In 1998 Patek Philippe launched the reference 5059, an automatic perpetual calendar with retrograde date. Reference 5059 followed and replaced the reference 5050, which had launched in 1993 and ceased production in 2006. While the dial layout of the two models was the same, both the dial design and the case shape of the models were different.
Reference 5050 was the first model since references 2497 and 2438 (both of which ceased production in the 1960’s) to feature sweep central seconds with a perpetual calendar, followed by the reference 5059. At the time in the late 1990’s, references 5050 and 5059 were the only two models produced by Patek Philippe to feature a retrograde date. A retrograde display is often presented in an arc shape, and the hands sweep across and then instantly spring back to the original position to begin moving across again. This unusual display was first seen on pocket watches in the 18th century before falling in popularity. Like all trends, this complication came back in the late 20th century on wristwatches, and is a creative way to display many functions, including hours, minutes, seconds, and date.
Approximately 600 examples of the reference 5059 were produced in yellow gold, and only 150 examples produced in each of the other metals, making the present watch a rarity. With the charismatic retrograde date display and robust officer’s style case, the reference 5059 has become a cult classic amongst Patek Philippe collectors.